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348 lines
20 KiB
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348 lines
20 KiB
Markdown
---
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title: The DiVER's Guide
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---
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# The DiVER's Guide
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## What is this?
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This document contains instructions for setting up a WACCA arcade cabinet with a thrown together OS while still
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maintaining the functionality of the game. I've written this guide to be as beginner-friendly as I could,
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but it still requires a level of technical background, which you are assumed to have.
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> DANGER: **Important!**
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> The instructions on this page are intended **only for original hardware!** They are not recommended for non-cab setups.
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> WARNING: **Disclaimer**
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> This process takes a while (around 2-3 hours), there's a lot of tedious setup, and it's a bit of a pain in the ass.
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> Hopefully this will change in the future, we'll see.
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> QUESTION: **"Do I need this guide?"**
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> If you only intend to play on [popular network],
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> **this guide is not for you, please follow the instructions provided by the network.**
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> NOTE:
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> The configuration here will set up your cab in a similar way to how the cab is normally set up.
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> This isn't super future-proof and relies on old versions of software. There will *eventually* be a new guide,
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> which will provide a way to run a more modern system and still run the game.
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### Things you'll need
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- [<ins>***Game files***</ins>](#archive "internet archive moment") (The guide was written for 3.07.01, but should work
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with most versions)
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> FAILURE: **Unsupported versions**
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> As of July 2025, all versions of **SDHN or SDJE** (Chinese version) do not
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> work with the configuration laid out in this guide. This may change in the future.
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>
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> Please ensure you are working with clean game files if you run into issues.
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- Phillips #2 screwdriver, and ideally JIS #2 as well.
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- An empty SATA SSD with at least 128GB of capacity (I use [this one](https://www.amazon.com/-/dp/B08CK7T9FG/) in mine)
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- [An ISO of **Windows 10 Enterprise LTSB 2016 x64**](https://massgrave.dev/windows_ltsc_links)
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([mirror](https://mega.nz/file/PBtggDaA#HySjX6zWohJKRVqpt_qUYgzRCBFzTmnNDXWESj_mvWI)) (You specifically want `en_windows_10_enterprise_2016_ltsb_x64_dvd_9059483.iso`, this is important)
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- A 16gb or higher capacity flash drive (Turn this drive into a bootable drive of the ISO above using
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[Rufus](https://rufus.ie/en/) or equivalent)
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- Some sort of USB hub with at least 3 ports (technically optional, but annoying otherwise)
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- A spare keyboard and mouse
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- An external 1080p monitor that can swivel to portrait and has HDMI or DisplayPort input on it (not strictly required,
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but a huge pain in the ass if you don't have it)
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- These files on the flash drive:
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- [7-Zip](https://7-zip.org)
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- [MAS](https://github.com/massgravel/Microsoft-Activation-Scripts)
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(It's annoying having your cab nag you to activate Windows)
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- [Motherboard Drivers](https://www.gigabyte.com/us/Enterprise/Embedded-Computing/MDH11BM-rev-10#Support):
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- Intel Management Engine 11.6.29.3287
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- Intel Chipset 10.1.1.38
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- Realtek Audio 435
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- Additional Drivers
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- [Nvidia Graphics Drivers](https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/drivers/details/141906/)
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(Older version, newer versions might work? Probably not.)
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- [FTDI D2XX USB to Serial](https://ftdichip.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/CDM212364_Setup.zip) ([mirror](files/CDM212364_Setup.zip))
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- [DirectX June 2010 Redistributable](https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/details.aspx?id=8109)
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- [Visual C++ 2012 Redistributable x64](https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/details.aspx?id=30679)
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- [Visual C++ 2015-2022 Redistributable x64](https://aka.ms/vs/17/release/vc_redist.x64.exe)
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- [TeamTofuShop's ST](https://gitea.tendokyu.moe/TeamTofuShop/segatools)
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([Pre-built version, preconfigured](files/mercury-cab-2024-12-23.zip))
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### Helpful things
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- A computer capable of running Linux
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- [Any USB 3.0 to SATA III adapter](https://www.amazon.com/-/dp/B00HJZJI84)
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(I use [this one](https://www.amazon.com/-/dp/B0B589LJXD/), but it's overkill for this)
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- [Rii 2.4GHz wireless mini keyboard mouse combo](https://www.amazon.com/-/dp/B00Z81U3YY)
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(Useful to have in the event you don't want to deal with a wired mouse and keyboard)
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----
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## Part 0: ALLS Extraction and Drive Swap
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### ALLS Extraction
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> WARNING:
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> **Ensure the cab's main power is disconnected, because it should be.** This may be obvious, but make sure.
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We need to take the ALLS computer out so that we can install the new drive.
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Unfortunately it's quite difficult to open the ALLS while it's still in the cab, so we must remove it for now.
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Inside the cab, you will find the ALLS firmly attached to the subwoofer. If your cab came with a keychip, you will
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first want to remove it from the keychip slot by squeezing on the bottom of it and pulling it out. Don't misplace that.
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Next, unplug the single connector inside to the right of the subwoofer and left of the coin box. Lastly, you want
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to start by detaching all the cables from the ALLS and then undoing the 2-3 cable ties that are holding the cables
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in place. The cable ties can be tricky; you want to pull upwards on the tab until it clears the hook and then feed it
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through in reverse.
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Now your ALLS should be free from cable hell. After moving the cables out of the way, locate the 2 screws
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to the left and right of the subwoofer at the bottom and remove them. The entire subwoofer/ALLS assembly should now
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slide directly outwards towards you and can be removed from the cab to be worked on.
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The ALLS PC has **7** screws securing the top panel, 2 on the top, 3 in the front, 1 on the right side, and 1 on the
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left side (that doesn't look attached). After removing those screws, you can slide the top panel forward and
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lift it up and out.
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### Drive Swap
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You should now be presented with the drive cage at the top of the case. Removing the 2 screws located on either side of
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the lip of the cage will allow the cage to be removed from the frame and the drive can then be unplugged from the SATA
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connectors. There are an additional 4 screws holding the drive to the cage, remove those as well.
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You now should have a drive in your possession that weighs more than it looks like it should.
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At this point, I would ***heavily recommend***
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[taking a full disk image of the drive **ON LINUX**](guide/alls-image.md),
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just in case anything happens to it.
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> DANGER: **Scary Red Text Zone**
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> <span style="color: red; font-size: .8rem;">
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> ***Do not plug this into any PC running Windows, it will turn into a paperweight!***
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> </span>
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Now you can install the new drive into the cage. Plug the SATA connectors back in, but don't install the cage back onto
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the frame, unless you aren't using the USB to SATA adapter to transfer files to your drive, in which case you can.
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Leave the top panel off for now and slide the subwoofer/ALLS assembly back into the cab. Be aware that there is an
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alignment tab in the back of the cab where the subwoofer slots in. Don't screw the subwoofer down yet, you have to be
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able to remove it to put the top panel back on later.
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There should be a helpful diagram sticker on the front of the ALLS that shows you where to plug all of the cables in,
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take note of the tags on the cables that assign them different roles. Plug everything back in *except the monitor* as
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shown by the diagram, and don't put the ties back on just yet. At this point, you can also reinsert the keychip.
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**Don't forget to plug in the subwoofer connector again.**
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It's finally time to do some actual installing.
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----
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## Part 1: BIOS Configuration, Installing Windows
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### Initial Setup
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Before we continue, you should grab your external monitor, ensure it's in a landscape position, and plug it into the
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graphics card. You should also ensure that your USB hub is connected, with your keyboard and mouse ready. You should
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also plug in your USB drive with **Windows 10 Enterprise LTSB 2016 x64** to the hub.
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***It is very important that you have the monitor plugged in before booting the system, or it will not be recognized.***
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You'll want to also plug your cab back into power.
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### BIOS Configuration
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> NOTE:
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> This step can be skipped if you do not plan on booting into USB drives after setting up your new drive. This is simply
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> a "nice to have" and not required for things to work properly.
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>
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> **If you choose to skip this, simply flip the power switch on and continue.**
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From here, grab the keyboard, flip the main power switch located the inside of the cab
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(not the ALLS one, ensure that always stays on), and spam the <kbd>Del</kbd> key until you are prompted for the
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BIOS password, which is `iG4k8yDa`.
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Once you have access to the BIOS, you'll want to head into the `Boot` section and change the first boot device to
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`USB Hard Drive` (the other USB ones didn't work for me) and the second boot device to the Hard Drive,
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as shown in the picture.
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> DANGER: **Do not change anything else!** You risk wiping your TPM key and make it impossible to boot from the
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> original drive if you do!
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Save and exit with <kbd>F4</kbd> and select `Yes` when you are done. It should reboot and
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put you into the Windows installer.
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### Installing Windows
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Start the installation, and if it asks you for a product key at any point, skip it. Next, it will ask you what kind of
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Windows install you want; pick `Custom` and you should be presented with the partitioning screen.
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You will want to create a new partition on Drive 0 that is the default size (the entire drive). It will notify you that
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it's creating additional partitions to help with Windows, and then you can continue to the next step.
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From here, it will install Windows, which should take about 5 minutes or so. Once Windows notifies you that the system
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will be rebooted, remove your USB drive from the hub and wait for the system to restart. Windows is now installed on
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your machine.
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Once the system has restarted, it should prompt you to answer a few questions about configuration. The keyboard
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configuration should be the same as your preferred keyboard. For the privacy settings, just turn everything off, you
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don't need any of that. It should now ask you for a username. This doesn't really matter, I just made mine `WACCA`.
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**Leave the password blank so that the system will automatically log in and press Next.**
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Wait a few moments, and you should be presented with the Windows desktop. Ensure the files mentioned in the preface are
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your USB drive, and insert it back into the USB hub. You now want to run the 7-Zip installer, as many things will
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require you to extract archives. Once you've done that, open 7-Zip, go to `Tools > Settings`, and change all the
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extensions for your user to 7-Zip.
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Next, you'll want to run the MAS script. To extract it from its archive, you'll want to use the password `1234`. After
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you run it, you'll want to select KMS38 and then select the first option. This will prevent Windows from screaming at
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you to activate it after a few days.
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Now, we can move on to installing the drivers that are necessary for interfacing with the various hardware of the cab.
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----
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## Part 2: Prerequisites Installation, Set Up Serial Ports, Group Policy Changes
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### Prerequisites Installation
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Run the installer for the Nvidia Display Driver, making sure to only select `NVIDIA Graphics Driver`,
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you don't need GeForce Experience, because that shit sucks. Select `Custom Install`, uncheck everything, then click `Next`.
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Wait for this process to complete, you may see your screen flicker.
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> NOTE:
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> If any of the installers prompt you to restart, select `Restart Later.`
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Install the FTDI driver, Management Engine, Chipset, and Audio drivers.
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Now install the both Visual C++ Redists, and the DirectX Redist. Specify a path for the DirectX Redist (I usually use
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`C:\DX`), and run `DXSETUP` from that folder to install.
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### Serial Port Setup
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Next, you should modify the buffer sizes for the COM ports on the ALLS. This is something that's done by the stock ALLS
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system, and it didn't seem to make much of a difference with or without it, but you might as well change it just to be
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sure. Press <kbd>Win</kbd> + <kbd>X</kbd>, and open Device Manager from the list that appears. Open the `Ports` section,
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and do the following for COM ports 1-4:
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* Right click, click Properties
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* Click Port Settings
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* Click Advanced...
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* Ensure that the Recieve Buffer is set to 14, and the Transmit Buffer is set to 1
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* Click OK to confirm
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### Group Policy Changes
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Next we will disable OneDrive and Windows Defender, as both of these are high memory background processes that will just
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suck up processing power for no real reason, since this machine isn't a typical PC setup. To disable these components,
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do the following:
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* Press the Win key, type `group`, and open the entry that says `Edit group policy`.
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* Navigate to `Local Computer Policy > Computer Configuration > Administrative Templates > Windows Components`,
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and select OneDrive.
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* Double click on `Prevent the usage of OneDrive for file storage`
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* Change it from `Not Configured` to `Enabled` and click OK.
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* Navigate back to the Windows Components section, and select `Windows Defender`.
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* Double-click on `Turn off Windows Defender` and set it to `Enabled` as well.
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You should now reboot the machine **from the Start Menu** to make sure all the changes have saved correctly.
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> WARNING: Do not power cycle the cab until after the computer has shut down, as the changes may not save correctly.
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----
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## Part 3: Screen Rotation, Audio Setup
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Once the system has rebooted, right-click on the desktop, choose NVIDIA Control Panel.
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Navigate to `Display > Rotate display`, and select either `Portrait` or `Portrait (flipped)`, depending on the direction
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that your monitor rotates. If your monitor has a resolution greater that 1080p,
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navigate to `Display > Change resolution` and change your resolution to 1080 x 1920.
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Now, press the Windows key, type `real` and open the Realtek HD Audio Manager. Change the Speaker Configuration from
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Stereo to Quadraphonic, right-click on the pink jack, and select `Connector Retasking...`. In the window that appears,
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choose `Rear Speaker Out` and disable the auto popup dialog. Press OK on both dialogs.
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After that, shut down the system and flip the main cabinet power switch (by the test and service buttons). This is
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mostly to make sure the file system changes are journaled correctly, as if they aren't, connecting the drive to another
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computer will cause all files transferred to it afterward to disappear when the system is booted again.
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## Part 4: Game Setup and Configuration
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Detach the new drive from the system and connect it to your USB to SATA adapter, and then to your computer.
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> DANGER: **Scary Red Text Zone**
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> <span style="color: red; font-size: .8rem;">
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> ***Again, as a reminder, do not under any circumstance connect the <ins>original</ins> drive to a Windows computer!***
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> </span>
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Once you have connected the drive, create a `WACCA` folder on the root of the drive, and then inside of it create
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another folder called `Reverse` (or whatever version you're using).
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> FAILURE: **Unsupported versions**
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> As of July 2025, all versions of **SDHN or SDJE** (Chinese version) do not
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> work with the configuration laid out in this guide. This may change in the future.
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>
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> Please ensure you are working with clean game files if you run into issues.
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Copy the game files into the directory you created. There should be folders named `bin`, `pxbin` and `WindowsNoEditor`
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in the folder, as well as a few files. Navigate to the `bin` folder, and extract the ST zip into this folder.
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If you are configuring a version that is pre-Lily (WACCA or WACCA S), you need to open the `start.bat` file
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**with a text editor**, and change `Mercury-Win64-Shipping.exe` to `Mercury.exe`.
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> ABSTRACT: **ST Note**
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> If you are ***not*** using the provided ST build, you will need to make some changes to `segatools.ini`:
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>
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> - Change `enable` to 0 under the `[touch]` and `[elisabeth]` sections
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> - Add `enable=0` under the `[io4]` section
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> - Add an `[aime]` section at the bottom and add `enable=0` on that as well
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**Eject the drive**, plug it back in to the cab, and power the cab on.
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We need to make additional configuration changes, but the files haven't been created yet, so you have to launch the game.
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Navigate to the folder you installed the game in, and launch it by running `start.bat`. A big W should appear, the game
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should start, and the lights on the cab should light up. Both LED and Touch checks should be successful.
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It should then hang on the Network check, at this point you should press <kbd>Alt</kbd>+<kbd>F4</kbd> to close the game.
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Open the file explorer again, and navigate back to the `bin` folder. There should now be an `appdata` folder. Navigate
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to `appdata\SDFE\Saved\Config\WindowsNoEditor`, right click on `Hardware.ini`, and click `Edit`. Add `OfflineMode=True`
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under the `[/Script/Mercury.MercuryNetworkSettings]` section and save the file.
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Start the game again, and note that the game now skips the network check and loads to the main menu successfully.
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Press the test button to open the test menu. Use the volume buttons to navigate up and down, and the test button to
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select. Navigate to `Device Test Menu > Test of Sound-Speaker`. Ensure the speakers are working by selecting
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`Replay BGM Sample`, picking `LEFT + RIGHT`. Plug some headphones into the jack to ensure that you can hear something
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from them as well.
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It will be quiet, but you should hear something. Once you have finished testing that, select `Return`.
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Navigate to `Test of Input Machine` and ensure all the panels light up as you touch them. Press test and service
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buttons at the same time to return. Navigate to `Test of Output Machine`, select `Control Panel LED` and ensure it
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lights up the front panel. Select `Aime Reader LED` and ensure that it also lights up. If it does not, consult the
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troubleshooting guide.
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Return back to the main test menu and navigate to `System Setting > Closing Time Setting`. Go down to
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`All Days of the Week` and change it until all the times on the page say `OFF`. Select `Apply Settings and Reboot`.
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This will not actually reboot the system, it will only close the game.
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**If you are setting up multiple versions, repeat these steps for each version you wish to include.**
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Follow the setup instructions for the [WACCA Launcher](launcher.md) and then return here.
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Finally, you need to configure the cab's display for this new setup. Close all the programs you have open, and then
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reopen NVIDIA Control Panel and navigate to `Display > Rotate display`. Disconnect your monitor from the GPU and connect
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the cab's DVI cable if you unplugged it. Press <kbd>Alt</kbd>+<kbd>Spacebar</kbd>, press <kbd>M</kbd>, and click and
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drag the window to the part of the display you can see. Rotate the display to `Portrait (flipped)` and press Apply.
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Reboot the system and the game should now start automatically. Congratulations, you've now set up your cab!
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## Part 5: Reassembly
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Reassembly of the cab is quite simple. Ensure the power is off, unplug all the cables from the ALLS, including the cable
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to the right of the subwoofer.
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Pull the subwoofer-ALLS assembly out of the cab, secure the new drive to the drive cage, the drive cage to the top frame,
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and put the lid of the ALLS back on (it's a little tricky, there's a lip on the left side that's not immediately obvious).
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Screw in all 7 screws from the lid, then slide the subwoofer-ALLS assembly back into the cab, making sure to line up the
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tab in the back, like before. Connect the subwoofer cable, and reconnect the ALLS cables, as done previously.
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Screw in the two subwoofer screws at the bottom of the subwoofer assembly.
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Optionally, you can put the cable ties back, for a cleaner look. You don't have to install them as they were before, you
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can just run the tie through the hole, and it should hold itself in well enough.
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Store the original drive somewhere safe, I personally keep mine in the bag that my manuals came in, but that's not an
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option for everyone. You could also store it in the coin drawer, if you don't plan on using coins in your cab.
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